If Portugal is on your travel list, read this before you go.
Portugal you rock! After spending five days in Lisbon and three in Porto, I came home feeling like we had found a really nice mix of history, culture, food, wine, beautiful architecture and just enough city energy to keep things interesting.
And for two single women who live in a small town, that city vibe was actually part of what made the trip so much fun. There was always something happening. Restaurants, shops, people out enjoying themselves, beautiful plazas and plenty of places to stop for a glass of wine or a cocktail and watch the world go by. If I were traveling with a romantic partner, I might choose a different balance and spend more of my time in smaller towns with visits into the cities. But for the two of us? Lisbon and Porto worked beautifully. And if you are traveling solo I would plan it like we did, city stays with day trips.
Now, let's talk about the shoes. Everyone tells you to bring comfortable shoes to Portugal, and they are NOT kidding. It's not just the famous cobblestone hilly streets. There are missing cobblestones, uneven pavement, holes, slippery surfaces and years of wear that have left some sidewalks looking like they've had a very long life. Active shoes are your best bet. I did fine in my low-heeled platform shoes on shorter walking days. This is not the trip to break in a cute new pair of shoes.
Getting around was another pleasant surprise. Bolt and Uber were easy to use, and taxis were readily available too. Because there were two of us, we decided to use a rideshare for our day trips to Sintra and Cascais. For solo travelers (and to save $$) the trains are also very accessible and easy to navigate. Portugal's rail system connects Lisbon with places like Sintra and Cascais, and CP has frequent service throughout the Lisbon metropolitan area.
And speaking of day trips… don't stay in the city the entire time. This may be my biggest piece of advice. If you, like us, choose a city hotel in Lisbon or Porto, build in time to get outside the city. Sintra is a must. It's beautiful, atmospheric and feels like you've stepped into another world. And please don't skip the Moorish Castle. I know there are a lot of palaces and castles competing for your attention in Sintra, but that one was a favorite for me.
Cascais gave us a completely different kind of day. After several busy days of sightseeing, we wanted to slow down. We rented an umbrella at the beach for a very reasonable price, soaked up some sun (in moderation, of course), had lunch and enjoyed a couple of summer adult beverages. Sometimes the best day of a trip is the one where you don't have a schedule.
One little cultural surprise I had read about before leaving was the bread and appetizers at restaurants. In Portugal, you may sit down and find bread, olives, pâté or other small items already on the table. They are not necessarily complimentary (we found this more in Lisbon than Porto). If you eat them, you will be charged for them. The individual charges are usually small, but those €2–€4 additions can add up and by the end of the trip can become a little annoying. The easy rule? If you don't want it, simply leave it alone or ask for it to be removed.
Porto was another highlight, especially because we decided to spend a full day exploring the Douro Valley. I'll admit we were hesitant. It was a long day (close to 9 hours) and involved a two hour each way bus ride, and we wondered if we really wanted to give up an entire day of our limited time in Porto. Wow. Yes. Go. The scenery alone was worth it. Add the river cruise, the vineyards and Port tastings, and suddenly that long day didn't seem so long. If wine is your thing, I would absolutely put the Douro Valley on the list.
A few other things I'd keep in mind: Portugal is very walkable, but "walkable" doesn't necessarily mean easy. Give yourself more time than Google Maps might suggest when you're dealing with hills, cobblestones and sightseeing. And don't over-schedule. We found that some of our favorite moments were the unplanned ones—sitting down for a long lunch, wandering into a shop, stopping for a drink or simply watching people go by.
If you're considering Portugal, I wouldn't feel like you have to choose between the big cities and the smaller towns. You can do both. If you want a quieter vibe stay in a small town and travel to the cities. If you are like us and wanted a little more energy staying in the city and traveling to small towns was the perfect combination.
Portugal was beautiful, easy to navigate, full of great food and wine, culture, and just enough of an adventure without feeling overwhelming. If you are traveling solo I highly recommend Portugal-again easy to navigate and many of the locals speak English and are ready to assist if you are feeling slightly lost.
